45 posts / 0 new
Last post
Tony Whitley
Tony Whitley's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 6 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Guy, how many times had Trevor used that trick on the TRE nut that came undone at Keevil? Whistle

ScottR400D
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 50 min ago
Joined: 23/08/2015

#11 No need to touch those when removing the diff, Geoff!

Fortunately, or it would have cost me a fortune fitting new ones each time! 

Guy Lowe
Guy Lowe's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Why would you need to replace the hub nuts when changing a diff Geoff?

Edit: I was actually replying to post number 11 but this software seems unable to deal with something as simple as that. 

 

 

Geoff Brown
Geoff Brown's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 1 hour ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Guy - The reason I change the hub nuts when dropping a diff? Because although popular I do not personally advocate the short cut way of removing the complete hubs even though it probably has a 100% success rate.

I am a creature of habit as after 43 years as an aircraft engineer the only way to dismantle & assemble something is the piece part way, removing, inspecting, cleaning & replacing if required. In aviation engineering there are no short cuts unless they are sanctioned by an approved written procedure.  

For the extra half hour per side with no pressures I think complete dismantling is the way - IMO

 

 

ChrisC
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 27 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Love the reminder of "Jesus Nuts".  I flow RC helicopters where the head was attached to the main shaft with a "Jesus Bolt" and that was always replaced after every crash.  

The original ford part numbers are 6133688 and 6133689 which have lots of alternatives

https://7zap.com/en/part/FORD/6133689/  

Ranging from £1.89 to £18 (for a genuine Ford item), admittedly the £1.89 versions are from Europe suppliers, so some are not shipping to UK at the moment. 

Recently a CC mechanic did tell me about a batch which stripped before they reached 270Nm, makes me glad to have genuine Ford items for now, even if one nut is 1mm bigger than the other :-(.   

GordonW
GordonW's picture
Offline
Last seen: 13 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

Chris, many thanks useful stuff, I passed on the £1.89 option......

ChrisC
Offline
Last seen: 15 min 27 sec ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

I think the difficulty is avoiding the £1.89 items sold with a 1000% markup :-)  

ScottR400D
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 50 min ago
Joined: 23/08/2015

#15. Geoff, that presumably means you dismantle and inspect the drive shaft joints? 

Do you have a source, other than CC who seem a little random, for joints, boots, clips etc and especially the compensating spring, which Caterham don’t offer at all?

That last item in particular seems to carry risk but is the one thing that can’t easily be got  

 

Geoff Brown
Geoff Brown's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 1 hour ago
Joined: 17/04/2014

ScottR400D - that is far too deep unless necessary. There would have to be a major problem with the CV joints or boots revealed by visual inspection & manipulation. 

Therefore cannot help with internal spares procurement. Surely the manufacturer can supply the parts. I do believe that there has ben a thread on TT about joint overhaul?

Found this but I do not think it mentions sourcing new internals: 2012_06_03_Driveshaft.pdf (lotus7.club)

john hooper
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 13/03/2018

Im just about to start my bmw diff removal, what is the recommended way to remove drive shafts. Do you just remove 4 bolts holding the hubs to the ears. Sorry if this seems a stupid question but am new to caterham maintenance and welcome any advice from more experienced owners