Rear suspension failure - check your nuts . . . well, bolts

[Bricol]

On  the commute home the other day, there was a loud BANG and the passenger side dropped - intially though puncture, but still tracted straight, no failing tyre, just it rubbing in the arch.

Pulled off the road and investigated - nearside rear on the floor, tyre intact.

I suspected the rear shock mount had failed on the de-dion tube, despite regular showing no issues.

Turns out the fixing bolt had sheared - 18 years and 45000 miles after I fitted it.  

Yet to get the snapped bit out, but I'm replacing all suspension bolts in single shear.

Caterham themselves proved to be very competitive on prices (including from my usual industial supplier - not much call for Grade 5 UNF hex heads!).  Ordered yesterday, delivered today.

About to go try a punch and hammer to get the stub out - failing that, a turned down nut is getting welded on to see if I can turn it out with that.

[SM25T]

If you drill it centrally, and keep increasing the drill size, it should warm it up and help release it. Should be able to hammer a TorX bit in and wind it out with a ratchet handle.

Trickle some Plusgas on the thread too.

[David Brown]

Top end wouldn’t be so easy to get out. 

[David Brown]

Top end wouldn’t be so easy to get out. 

[Wrightpayne]

Top would just need a few rivets drilling out and ally panel removal

[Bricol]

It just got seriously warmed several times with the welder - its not shifting.  Axle coming out and going on the mill over the weekend!  The other side came out very nicely and the bolts shows no signs of pain - still getting replaced though.

As the radius arm bolts seem to not want to come out with the seats in, I guess they are coming out too - at least it will allow me to sort out why the drivers heated seat doesn't work on setting 2.

I have removed a problem top bolt before - the captive nut escaped and simply spun - some careful angle grinding followed by some welding sorted that one out