Rover EU2 alternator connector?

[Richard Price]

I'm in the process of making up a bespoke engine loom for an engine transplant.

I've only got access to EU3 bits to look at, but the loom needs to suit an alternator on an EU2 car.

I believe the EU2 alternators have just the main output power cable (linked onto the starter motor feed from the battery), and a single, brown/yellow core going to the charge indicator to provide excitation.

How is that brown/yellow core connected to the alternator? Is it a molded plastic connector (if so what is it, so I can get one) , or simply a spade connector?

[7 wonders of the world]

I would try your local auto electrical place, if they repair alternators they can usually help with the plugs etc, also fleabay theres usually sellers on there with a raft of different plugs complete with pins and seals.

[Paul Mason]

I've just bought one from Mid Ulster Rotating Electrics, can't for the life of me remember the website address. £9 odd including delivery. Quick, simple and really big range (AUDI VW SKODA 2 Pin Connector Bosch Valeo Alternator Plug 4D0971992 PL13-WL2 is the one I got)

[revilla]

Looks like both connections are just ring terminals (EU2 Alternator is YLE101520 or Bosch A115I-65A):

[Richard Price]

Gents,

Thanks for your replies.

'think Andrew is "on the money" with the two studs.

'anyone know if the two studs are the same size? (I'm guessing the main one will be M8, the same as the EU3 alternators that I'm familiar with)

[revilla]

If you look here: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/yle101520

Scroll down to the LUCAS ELECTRICAL Alternator equivalent part.

It says "M8 B+ M5 D+".

So I think that's your answer, M8 for the main output, M5 for the warning.

[TomB]

EBay! 

[Richard Price]

It says "M8 B+ M5 D+".

Yes. That looks likely to me. I can deal with that easily enough. Thank you. 

[Jonathan Kay]

What's the smart way to provide electrical and weather protection over that type of connection?

Jonathan

[SLR No.77]

Richard, the usual o/e connectors are a combined ring terminal and nut, a sort of captive nut arrangement although I'm not sure what the correct terminology is. From what I remember they're likely to be M5 & M8 as mentioned.

Stu.

Edited to add ... 8mm version here: http://www.automotiveconnectors.com/ring-terminalcaptive-nut-crimp-m8-10mm2.html

 

[revilla]

@Jonathan, they're not usually protected, they rely on the clamping force provided by the nut sealing the metal to contact to prevent corrosions between them. You could apply a little dielectric grease as for battery terminals I guess.

[Wrightpayne]

Richard,

mine are exactly the type as described by Stu above - ring with captive nuts.

Ian

[Wrightpayne]

I'm in the process of doing some wiring alterations on my K series concerning the FIA switch and the various power cables to be fitted after the switch. One of the things I want to do is make a short jump cable directly between the alternator and starter motor (which ultimately goes to the battery). Currently the 10mm cable goes right around the engine, hopping from engine to chassis and back again! I'm told the EU3 engines have the short jump cable already but use different connectors (Caterham sell the cable for the EU3) 

I cannot find an M6 to 10MM connector with a captive nut, only M8. I think this will end up with a plain connector and separate nut.

Any suggestions (I've messaged Richard directly).

 

[revilla]

The equivalent EU3 cable has plain ring terminals, with a separate washer and nut at each end.

[Wrightpayne]

Thanks Andrew :-)

[Wrightpayne]

Update.

 

I found the Caterham part too long and the cable got very close to the 4-2-1 exhaust primaries. It may be different with the single pipe 4-1 manifold within the engine bay.

I made up my own with 10mm lugs and cable from 12volt planet, using a 90 degree M8 lug onto the starter. Alternator was an M6 straight lug. I used a heat resistant sleeve.

Ian