Rover K Engine Wiring

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David Lynch
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Rover K Engine Wiring

I remember this place.... well in nicer parallel universe a few years ago anyway :(

Looks like I may have some time at home to get on with long overdue recommissioning of what has long been called "Daddy's Broken Car".

I know this will be a rabbit hope of mechanical and electrical  pitfalls but my early EU1 1.4 has to come out as there is no longer a reluctor/ring gear attached to the flywheel and the first version throttle with built in stepper is awful.

I have an EU2 1.6 SS waiting to drop in (had that 10 years now!!!) with what I hope is matching EU2 MEMS unit, MFRU and a very messy, unwrapped and potentially butchered loom. I honestly can't remember where I got everything from.

I figure step one and help I need is to identify what I have (and therefore what I need). Niggling concern is any immobiliser issues. The thing I believe to be a MFRU could be a 5AS unit... without a keyfob.... how was Roadsport A wired?

I will try upload some photographs in coming days.

Cheers, David

Jonathan Kay
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Have you already got the wiring diagrams? Let me know if you need copies.

Revilla's analysis of the EU2 engine loom.

Jonathan

Tazio
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Andrew Revill, Revilla on here fully documented, and corrected the wiring diagrams published by Caterham. He is the one man to ask!
sforshaw
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Hi David, welcome back Thumb Up

My '99 SLR had been substantially messed with when I bought it and after numerous electrical issues I decided to completely rewire the engine loom to get back to something that agreed with the wiring diagram, the electrics have been 100% reliable since doing it.

Not sure what stage you're up to, but ......

My advice would be to start with the various wiring diagrams applicable to your old car and also the wiring you want to achieve, although you're doing a custom install if you can align it to a particular wiring diagram it will make life easier in the future. Jonathan & Andrew will have the various diagrams you need, also Regin (RJ) mailed me diagrams that were appropriate for my install and were a massive help. I used pdf's of the wiring diagrams and sectioned them so I could print out A4 sheets and tape them together into a very large diagram ... the bigger the better. I found errors in the various diagrams I had, if Andrew has corrected them that will be really helpful.

All the correct colour cables and new connectors are available from Polevolt and make sure you have a proper tool, otherwise we'll buy you some spurs!

I wired my engine while on an engine stand, I just wired the various sensors to long lengths of reclaimed or new thinwall cable and routed each wire where I thought it should go loosely holding them together will cable ties. Only after I'd got all the sensors and cables in place (including a few extras such as oil pressure warning light and the ability to go distributorless) did I then tape the whole lot together with proper loom tape. The loom tape will hold the wiring together in whatever shape you create so you might want to do the last bits when the engine is in. It's also worth waiting to wire the ecu plug to the loom until after you have the exact shape you want, with so many wires it'll be fixed once taped in. I did this after refitting the engine.

You'll also need to make changes to your older car loom to incorporate the 5AS, it's very integral with both the ecu wiring and a second round grey connector plug that links the engine loom to the car loom. Early eu2 cars had a rectangular black plug but this was pre-5AS, you need the grey multi-pin plug used on later eu2 cars.

Regarding identifying the 5AS/MFRU .... the 5AS is a rectangular box with small connectors, the MFRU is a wedge box with 2 very large sockets on the larger end of the wedge.

Buzz me if you get stuck!

Stu.

Lotus Seven Club AR Working Group

The register for all numbered limited-edition Caterhams ....... www.thecaterhamregister.net ...... www.instagram.com/thecaterhamregister

revilla
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Hi, I think you've already been pointed towards my updated diagrams. The EU2 loom is fairly straightforward to put together. If it's in mess it might be worth starting again. For what it's worth I tend to start from the opposite end to Stu, attaching wires to the ECU connectors then working along branching things off to the various sensors etc. but there's no right or wrong way, whatever you find easiest. If you are making up a new loom, I would just do it as standard for the engine you are putting in as far as possible and not worry about where you are starting from. The MFRU and the 5AS are different things. The MFRU is a box of four interconnected relays that usually sits with the ECU. The 5AS is the immobiliser which is usually up on the scuttle near the driver's knees. If you need the ECU, 5AS and a couple of key fobs pairing up just let me know, I've got loads of spare refurbished fob circuit boards and you can buy new cases on eBay for about £3. I've got everything needed to pair them up and I've done quite a few sets for club members.

SV VVC 170 - 170.4 bhp @ 7100 rpm - 142.4 ft.lb. @ 4900 rpm

sforshaw
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Well you don't get better offers than that!

Andrew - the plug entry to my ecu is from the bulkhead side so the routing of the 30 or so wrapped cables is quite tortuous, the cable lengths and wrapping can't be finalised until in the car and connected, bit of a pain but the only way it could be done to the standard I wanted!

Stu.

Lotus Seven Club AR Working Group

The register for all numbered limited-edition Caterhams ....... www.thecaterhamregister.net ...... www.instagram.com/thecaterhamregister

revilla
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Stu - Yes, they're all different! I've mostly been making looms for standard cars (unless you count German LHD cars with the alternators in the other side). It's a matter of the most appropriate solution in each case and to a large extent, simply personal preference.

SV VVC 170 - 170.4 bhp @ 7100 rpm - 142.4 ft.lb. @ 4900 rpm

David Lynch
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Thank you all. I will get a copy of your updated EU2 loom drawing plotted Andrew. This is going to get very messy...and now certain I need to study and rework dash loom as much as engine.

Garage (and parts bin) getting more accessible thanks to a minor clear out. I will get back in there tomorrow and see what I truly have. I am now guessing I am at least missing a 5AS (which will still be on EU2 source car's bulkhead... L7EVL) and paired keyfob. Certainly going to need your expertise on that Andrew not least as ECU will need interrogation.

Stu, so glad I'd not hacked into new dash panel to reinstall the (ancient Toad) immobiliser socket. Looks like dash loom to unpick the Toad and 5AS to incorporate. Immobiliser on (dodgy old) Immobiliser would be recipe for disaster.

Scuttle off photo will make you shudder... Polevolt will do well out of me else it's almost worth a car loom too. At that point I'd be as well calling Arch for full skin off chassis refurb....that is not presently an option.

Cheers, David

 

CaterBram
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David,

Of Course the other option is to go totally after market with a dedicated wiring loom for the ECU.

Chris.

Chris Bramall - Deep in the YoSDeNS area...

Member Since Aug 2009 

Englishmaninwales
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David

You could use a plug compatible Emerald, keeping the original EU1 loom, remove the gear cogs/ innards of the idle stepper (to prevent any inadvertent activity when powered up) and set the idle on your TB spindle set screw. Check the TPS is working (the wiring inside corrodes). 
Obviously you'll need a rolling road session cost to factor in.

(I've not actually done this, so it's abit of guess work, there maybe someone along to correct me!)

Alternatively there was a recent thread about fixing the EU1 stepper motor circuit board. 

Finally, I was able to get a brand new old stock EU1 TB on eBay, they do come up from time to time.

Malcolm

David Lynch
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All

My mind is made up to go EU2 and as standard/OEM as possible. I couldn't justify an Emerald etc to myself (yet) and the EU1 1.4 lump has to come out to get into the bell housing (to remove the bits of Ring gear clobbered by the starter motor). I think first step is undo the Toad immobiliser,  dash wiring with the 5AS prep.

Also to consider have FIA Battery master switch, big red starter button, aircraft style main switch and no ignition barrel. My mods since 2005 when bought it are Stepper Tacho and proximity sensor driven speedo (front wheel stud triggered).

Frankly it's awful and Stuart's approach may be justified as cost effective given I am in no rush..

Afternoon off tomorrow so small person can come help me take those horror photo's. Not losing 45 minutes to a commute each way for the foreseeable am I :(