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Sikaflex removal


PACR

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I've just bought a 1995 Mini and on stripping down the engine I've found that the front cover - couple of mm thick steel plate - is bonded to the block with a black sealant or adhesive. It reminds me of black Sikaflex adhesive I've seen used for holding wings on. Mechanical removal is given as the only option for Sikaflex but I can't mechanically reach the stuff. The plate bends before the black stuff yields enough to get a blade or wire in to cut it.

Can anyone suggest any way to get the parts apart or guess what sealants may be used in an a series rebuild? It's stood up to hot oil pretty well - is there a solvent that anyone has successfully used to remove similar stuff from wings or wing stays? Or is heat a way to soften it up?

Piers

 

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I presume you are talking about the plate behind the timing gears.  The usual thing would be to use the proper gasket with a bit of Hylomar or similar.  No idea why Sikaflex would be used.  With all the timing gear and fixing screws removed (including the two countersunk ones below the crank I would use as much force/leverage as needed to remove the plate.  If it get damaged a new one is less than £30.  Try not to damage the block though - they are a bit more expensive!

https://www.minispares.com/search/classic/12g2626.aspx

 

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Are you stripping down the engine to rebuild it?  Try heating it up with a blowtorch to soften it and lever from the bottom where you can spread the load over more of the plate area perhaps?

For reassembly Minispares do an uprated engine gasket set but I've no personal experience of using it (yet).  I did cure a persistent rocker cover gasket leak by using the Minispares silicone gasket, I found the cork ones leaked despite careful installation.  Apparently ancient legends speak of mythical leak free A series but I've never seen one.

Currently restoring my 1275GT and like Stu would be interested to hear more about your car.  We'll end up with our own sub forum before long. *biggrin*

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I've tried getting a loop of welding wire around it - found that after pulling and snipping off bead on the end of the wire and jiggling the welder tip whilst holding down the trigger on the old MIG welder frees up the wire well enough for it to push 5mm or so into a finger! Once I could grip the wire (blood clotted...) I found I couldn't get access. Heat gun in anger tonight- sacrifice the plate to save the block.

Stu, Moz: The car is a 'bought unseen' Red and White SPi Cooper. I'd looked at an older 1000 and a newer MPi heading into proper auctions and joined online bidding briefly with my wife's approval - they went for about double what I'd considered reasonable. So when one came up locally on eBay I snapped it up before the approval lapsed. It's sat for a couple of years and needs A panels, wings, outer sills replaced and doors reskinned and bottoms welded, rear boot floor and driver and passenger foot wells. I got the engine running with some duct tape used on a vacuum tube - drove to an MOT test which it failed but nothing unexpected. It's now a stripped shell - almost! The upper dash pad and remains of the loom are a pain. Engine is stripped but I can't lift the crank out. Main bearings have scores in them so will need to see if the crank can be saved. The head is ported which was a surprise as everything else looks standard - looks pretty good job but with std inlet valve size.

Plans are to get a new Cam kit (SW5) in a 1293 block using std +20thou pistons with the head possibly going to MG Metro inlet valves. Not sure on roller rockers at 1.5 ratio or forged 1.4. Then Maniflow LCB + exhaust (inc new cat as the one I took off was empty!) and K&N element. Should be about 75/80 bhp and sound like 100 which is half the fun. Apparently the SPI set up can manage to adapt to this and revs kept around 6000ish should mean it holds together ok.

For the body I want to get the 7.5" brakes for 10" minilites, grp 2 arches and keep flame red but change to a black roof. Not too bothered about the interior so will fix the drivers seat and sort the lacquer on the dash (but I think black crinkle finish will be nicer than the walnut).

I just need to learn to weld again now and then improve my painting (and patience in rubbing down properly). I'm tempted by the roll over jigs as I think it will make it much more appealing and back friendly to work on it.

Minis are a good fit with a Caterham in the garage. With both in a double garage there's still room to work on stuff. I was surprised how well the SPI started - no playing with chokes and trying to give just enough throttle as it coughs into life.

Piers

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Mine is a 1976 850 saloon rebuilt with a new Heritage shell (started 2000, on road 2006) and now fitted with a 1300GT engine.  It also has a SW5 cam and is bored +.040.  The rockers are roller but only 1.3 ratio - the SW5 works well with them.  It has a Calver Special Tuning head and twin HS2 carbs.  95 bhp (at flywheel) on rolling road.  I also run 10" wheels and I can recommend Yokohama A032s.  With the right wheels you can get 7.9" brakes and 4-pot alloy calipers under them.  Article in Summer 2012 Mini Magazine if anyone wants further info

DSC_7033b.JPG.2a6288e0c9538ac1dfbd55af5e7955b3.JPG

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Looks great. I'm sure there's many projects started with a grinder and welder that would be better off with a new shell - I hope mine's not one of them. There seems as many options for Mini brakes as for Caterhams now. Changed a bit from swapping to Metro 4 pots.

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Thanks, it has given us (I built it with my nephew) lots of fun.  Regarding new shells it was a much easier decision when we started - a shell complete with doors, boot and bonnet was £1,800.  They start at just under £9k now. 

We also have a Clubman Estate on the go and there was no option but to get the welder out for that (got someone else to do it though)

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Got it off - lots of heat from my trusty Aldi Heat Gun and a 30 year old Opinel knife.

I fancied a Clubman Estate but they seem to be really popular now. I guess the rarity value increases as they were unloved for many years.

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