Degner Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I have recently bought a 1997 Supersport with some powder coat flaking and surface corrosion to the chassis tubes particularly at the rearI'm looking for an easy but effective method of removing the corrosion without dismantling too much.Has anyone tried soda blasting or is it just not aggressive enough to remove the powder coat and any corrosion?Any help much appreciated.ThanksNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Wire brush ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted January 18, 2020 Leadership Team Share Posted January 18, 2020 Search eBay for "poly strip disc".I'm using them in an angle grinder for a rebuild I'm doing on a classic Mini, they rip through the paint without damage to the steel. Any areas you can't get access to mechanically can be done manually with aluminium oxide paper.Stu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I did my '98 rear a few years ago. I used 1" strips of emery cloth by hand, after careful application of nitromors.Bit like drying your back with a towel but around the chassis tubes IYSWIM. What are you refinishing with? I used hammerite primer and black satin. If doing again think I would use POR-15 (careful not to get on your skin!)Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Arch use this for minor repairs now,I've used it on odd brackets and its an excellent match, Google and ebay should reveal many sellers at a lower pricehttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SIMONIZ-Tough-Black-Satin-500ml-/183500882535?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I’ve had my chassis looked and by Arch this year and they used this Simoniz spray locally where some corrosion needed sorting before panelling. If I was doing the job myself, I wouldn’t use it, I’d take longer and use the POR15. When I’ve subsequently put the car back together, I’ve found the paint Arch applied quite soft and I’ve actually managed to scuff bits off here and there when putting the car back together. The POR is demanding and needs the full 2 stage prep described before painting, and a second coat before the frost is fully dry, but it is the best thing I’ve used. It lasts longer than Hammerite and normal cellulose paints. It’s a cyanoacrylate based paint, which is the main ingredient in superglue, and that sticks quite well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Mines a 97 and I am afraid the very worse point in poor powder coat history on 7s . I ve just done mine for the 3rd time. Good news is that the rust is just superficial and a wire brush removed it . Degreased it and painted it with Hamerite. I've used POR15 in the past but didn't last much longer than other paints. I plan to use the hamerite anti stone chip on the front facing tubes . When my eldest has saved enough we will rebuild it and get the chassis striped and recoated with the latest version of arches powder coating. That's the only way I can see of fixing it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 One other thought on a product to investigate is Upol Raptor. Its expensive but designed for flat beds of pick up trucks and sprays on with a slight texture finish.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Evil Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 not a fan of powder coating for longevity; it looks great at first and it hides a lot of sins, but it can harden over time, chip, flake and let water get underneath it rusting away hidden from sight. Personally if having a seven repanneled by arch, I'd POR15 or epoxy mastic 121 https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/em-121-epoxy-rust-proofing-chassis-paint-7 the chassis before handing it over to them. Maybe a little more effort, but I think it would last many years longer than powder coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Epoxy paint is useless unless you follow the application instructions to abrade the surface - if you thought powder coat hid damage, wait until you see what epoxy paint can do when it separates from the metal. Blast the surface to the specification the manufacturers state, and it'll hold on extremely well.I used it under my integrale road car - where I blasted the surface before application, I needed to blast it again ten years later to get it off. Where I only used an angle grinder - whole sheets/flakes not attached any more. In fact, conventional primered and painted areas were better.Jotun (my choice) or Lechler are better value sources of epoxy paint than epoxymastic etc. Avaialble in winter and summer spec, and in different colours.My 2001 Seven, despite living outside for a number of years, being driven in all weathers, having done a reasonable mileage still has pretty good powder coat though - I inspect it reasonably regularly having been scared when looking at second hand sevens in 2001 - the state of most is what made me buy new, inspect carefully, and cover all tubes with Dinitrol, and now Noxudol 700 wax to protect it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degner Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Thanks for all the advice, much appreciated.I'm guessing no one has tried soda blasting then ?I just thought this might be a way of cleaning things up without dismantling.Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 How do you soda blast an assembled car? Won't it make a horrible mess, and how do you avoid blasting what you don't want to blast if you're working on a narrow chassis tube? If its localized rust, use the tried and trusted methods set out above to take off the rust, prep and repaint. If its bad enough to need blasting and recoating, well, that's a whole different kettle of fish! If its the suspension components, you can remove from the car, press out the bushes and get them blasted and recoated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degner Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 I'd heard soda was good for localised removal of scale and that it had no effect on rubber seals and bushes etc, hence the appeal.Looks like I need to do more research. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 Just found a bit of this blown into the front garden. Googled - looks interesting.....https://www.screwfix.com/p/select-products-cleanfit-plumbers-abrasive-strip-roll-180-grit-5m-x-38mm/3935K?tc=HC1&ds_kid=92700022885069235&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&ds_rl=1248184&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyJbFhJbJ5wIVg7HtCh1wHgI6EAQYBiABEgLJivD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted February 11, 2020 Member Share Posted February 11, 2020 "Robust, waterproof silcone carbide abrasive. High-performance, long lasting alternative to traditional sandpapers. Non-splintering and non-rusting."Oy. That's my spelling mistake!Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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