Standard wheel alignment figures

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Scotland North AR
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Standard wheel alignment figures

Hi, can anyone point me in the right direction for standard wheel alignment figures for a 2009 150 Sigma SV please. Castor, camber and toe.

Just replaced my steering rack gaiters and found that before I took the relevant parts to bits, there was 3mm difference between the end of the locknut and the end of the thread on the inside of the track rod at each side.

I'm getting the alignment properly checked in the morning before I drive too far on brand new tyres.

Ta very glad.

SM25T
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Next time you do it ...this is what I have done on a couple of cars lately.

Lift front of car.

Remove any cover over track rod end and lock nut. 

Draw a line of tippex on flat of nut and onto TRE.

Spanner on flats of TRE and on lock nut. Crack lock nut and turn it back against the TRE.

Blob of Tippex on thread of track rod and onto face of nut. 

Using flats on the track rod, unscrew the rod from the TRE. Should be loose enough to turn by hand once it starts turning.

When it falls out of TRE, remove lock nut and snip cable ties on rack gaiter.

When refitting, don't fit small outer cable tie on new boot until all finished, or you can't turn the rod.

Refit as reverse of above.

Only turn lock nut up to the blob of Tippex. Screw rod home until it touches nut. Then align both marks as you nip up lock nut.

On the driver side ... apply some grease to the teeth under the rack before fitting new gaiter and wind it from lock to lock to distribute.

 

Scotland North AR
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Good procedure.

Thanks for that, do you have the actual standard settings though?

I used a vernier to check the length of exposed thread at each side before taking apart.

Nigel Simpson,

07484 173733

Scotland North AR

rj
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It depends on how you want the car to drive. I think comon practice it to set it at zero toe and for road 1.5deg negative camber. Then, if you feel it won't turn in adjust to toe out (equally on both sides to keep steering wheel centered)

tbirds search:

Blatchat Google Search

Scotland North AR
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I was looking for the “manual” standard road settings as a starting point. I’d read different views on the toe in and out and understood the difference between track and road ok. 

I was struggling to find a definitive Caterham “as delivered” spec before the owner tuned it to their liking.

Nigel Simpson,

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Scotland North AR

Jim 123
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If you have a copy of the Build Manual for your car the numbers you need are towards the back of the manual. It's probably page 184 from looking at my copy.

Jim

Jonathan Kay
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7 wonders of th...
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Adjust Caster Camber and Toe in that order - all with ballast

As a starting place

Caster 2-2  2-2

Camber 1.5 - 1.75 NEG

Toe  10mins toe out

Have you had the bumpsteer checked too..?

 

Scotland North AR
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Thanks for all that, have now found the table in the various manuals. It varies from toe out in the early manual to toe in in the later one. The relevant terms don’t come up using a search of the PDF documents annoyingly.

Funnily enough, the posting from 2014 which Jonathan refers to is from my mate Tony on Mull!

What I’ll do is get it all measured up in the morning at Kwikfat and revert back with a more comprehensive post summarising it all in one place.

To answer 7W, I’ve never had the suspension properly checked out flat foot wise before.

Nigel Simpson,

07484 173733

Scotland North AR

Jonathan Kay
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The relevant terms don’t come up using a search of the PDF documents annoyingly.

Some Assembly Guide pdfs are text-searchable and some aren't. I've never worked out why.

Jonathan

Jim 123
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Just a cautionary mention, if you are going to adjust the camber, this should be done before setting the tracking. If the camber needs setting you might want to do this yourself or get some advice on here rather than entrust the job to ThikFit.

Jim