Jon Stewart Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I've checked in the archives on how to replace a steering arm boot but there are a number of broken links. Is it as straightforward as undoing the lock nuts on the end of the steering arm at the extension piece (on widetrack) and sliding a new boot on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug phillips Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 Just about, I did this the other week.You will need to break the track rod end from the hub, then remove it (counting how many turns it takes to come off). Then cut the cable ties that hold the old gaitor on, and remove it. Replace and wind the track rod end back on the same amount of turns. Put it back into the hub, an tighten back up the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Stewart Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 Thanks Doug.I had a crack at this last night but couldn't get the inner end of the boot over the lip on the rack. The new boot seems much tighter and comparing with the old would suggest it tapers slightly.any tips on getting this on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug phillips Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I had the same problem, it will go on just "use the Force Luke" It will go on, oh and I also added some more grease to the joint at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Cooper Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 I've done this a couple of times.I put a bit if electricians tape hard up to the nut before undoing. This acts a s guide for refitting and is a bit more exact than counting turns.A squirt of WD inside the gaiter should help it on its way. Col Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Stewart Posted April 19, 2015 Author Share Posted April 19, 2015 Thanks again Doug.I was using a fair bit of force but the most I could get over the lip was about a quarter before it would pop off - ill try and have another crack today. Colin, the boot went on easily - it's the inner end that goes over the lip on the rack that's the problem.i managed the loose fit which got through the MOT retest yesterday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lost Boy Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I need to do this too, wondered if anyone can help? When you break the track rod end from the hub, how do you remove once the bolt is undone, isn't it a tapered fit so a bit nervous about clonking it with the hammer? Also are the boots a standard part or is it a trip to to Caterham Parts?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Pearce Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 I didn't remove the track rod end from the hub...I just loosened the locking nut and unscrewed the rod from the track rod end - it has flats so you can fit a spanner if needed. Don't forget to count the turns (or fit a bit of tape as described above.When re-fitting, screw the rod in before fitting the cable-ties to minimise the twist on the new boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted May 18, 2015 Member Share Posted May 18, 2015 (Crossed with Ray's.)Unscrew the rack arm from the track rod end rather than splitting the track rod end from the upright. Mark or measure the position first so you can restore it afterwards.This is is known as Stu's trick, and is discussed here but I can't find the original description or the picture.Alternative gaiters are listed and discussed in this thread. I bought mine from Caterham... and I've just noticed that the other side has split: thanks!Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lost Boy Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Thanks Guys, that should be easier!!! Caterham out of stock and not at all hepful as usual!!! May have to try one of the other brands Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Machine Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 May be a bit late for advice at this stage but have found that 'boots' of all types tend to be easier to fit if you place in a sealable plastic bag then imerse in hot water for 10 mins or so. As already suggested a squirt of WD 40 or similar can also assist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Stewart Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Redline had them in stock a few weeks ago. failing that I have a spare set if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lost Boy Posted May 19, 2015 Share Posted May 19, 2015 Again, thanks guys, have emailed Caterham to see when they might have them in, else I will try Redline. Not urgent as got it through the MOT but ff to the Ring at the end of June so would like to have it sorted before then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HendrixsWhiteStratReturns Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 Sorry ... being a bit fick.....halfway through the job for Stuart’s trick which end do I unscrew A or B ( do I put spanner’s on both and hold the end not being slackened also, how do you get the thin end of the boot on ?cheers folks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted August 17, 2019 Share Posted August 17, 2019 Multiple posts read out of sequence thus comment deleted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted August 20, 2019 Share Posted August 20, 2019 I used a ball joint separator.https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-ball-joint-separator-scissors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted August 20, 2019 Share Posted August 20, 2019 No need to do that. You have to unscrew the rod from TRE anyway ... just leave TRE attached to steering arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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