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Stuck in Spain - Help needed re K-Series click. Now sorted with thanks


Carrotland AR

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Hi Folks

Our Andy is stuck in Spain with his 1.4K Roadsport. He can see this thread but can't post. Can anybody help him? 

Here is his message:

 

Please can you do me a large favour (don't panic I don't need picking up), N7SEV got to Spain faultlessly but now I have arrived I have a intermittent starting problem.  I put the immobiliser fob in the slot press the starter button and all you can hear is a click (of a relay?) in the ecu, nothing else, after the usual wire wiggling it starts, but I have no idea what I have moved.   For some reason I am unable to post on the forum for obvious things to check (I do know the batteries good, as this has come up on several posts as an issue)' could you possibly post a question for me as I am able to see the posts.  

Just in case you forget.

1400 super sport 1996 , black fob with red end which has 5 electrical connectors.

Thanks for your help.

Regards
Andy

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  1. Please confirm that the immobiliser is working as usual.
  2. Which wires are you wiggling that helps?
  3. Have good look at and play with all of the wires and connections to and at the starter and the battery including the earths. If possible wiggle, disconnect, clean, reconnect.
  4. How do you know that battery is good rather than marginal? Could you jump from another vehicle when it clicks rather than cranking?
  5. Can you get your hands on a multimeter?

Jonathan

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I've got through a couple of starter motor solenoids in the last 12 months.  Same symptoms, particularly when hot (which I imagine Spain is...).

Each time giving the solenoid a smart tap with a hammer, spanner or similar seemed to do the trick.

Not the most convenient, but it might get you home. 

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Re my mention of jump start test previously.  Behind my thought is the point that with engine compartment heat, the high rate of battery electrolyte evaporation on our cars always surprises me and it is a routine check often overlooked.  Maybe along with having fun in Spanish climes Andy should do a check to make sure he is getting full push from a non depleted battery and the levels are OK?

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The following message was received from Andy this morning:


I have just seen al the replies and would be grateful if you could post the following.

The photo of the fob is the correct one.

The wires which I wiggled were mainly random.

I am on holiday based in the Figueres area.

I am basing my assumption that the battery (banner) is good on the fact that it is less than a year old and always on a conditioner when at home.

I have checked all that has been suggest and I can see no faults, so have to assume that I am now a fully paid up member of the k-series click club.

Over the next couple of days I will be tracking down a crimp and a length of wire (I greatly appreciate the photo as my Spanish is very rudimentary).

I thoroughly recommend taking your Caterham to Spain, but please get an additional relay fitted first.

Finally my heartfelt thanks to everybody who has looked at the post and especially to those who have post ideas and suggestions.

Regards

Andy
 

 

 

 

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I am basing my assumption that the battery (banner) is good on the fact that it is less than a year old and always on a conditioner when at home.

I wouldn't rely on that.

Check the fluid levels.

A multimeter (un multímetro, picture below) would help a lot. Measure the voltage across the battery at rest, at 3,000 rpm, and minimum during cranking or attempting to.

Jumping from another vehicle or another battery and seeing if it makes a difference might also add some information.

Does the charge warning light come on with the ignition and go out as soon as the engine is running?

Jonathan

ScreenShot2019-08-24at10_09_44.png.a698540b4a47f31b5b79aacf9c5916b2.png

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One thing worth trying, see if it will bump start, that will eliminate an immobiliser problem. Don't rule out a bad earth these often cause problems. I had what I thought was a relay problem, turns out it was an earthing problem even though the cables looked ok.  

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It may not be the relay. There are many causes to the click, as can be seen from the forum threads.

If you are passing by Toulouse on the way home, and I am back from holiday and you still need it fixed, let me know.

As mentioned elsewhere, don’t assume that your battery levels are ok. It is not a sealed battery, so levels need to be checked on a regular basis.

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Just received a further update from Andy. Now sorted, thanks to everybody for getting him out of a fix, especially Tony Whitley for the bypass cable method. It has allowed him to carry on with the holiday and to get home safely.

Well done everybody!

Steve W

Here is Andy's latest message as sent to me:


Hi Steve,


Just to let you know that I have just tried out the method as suggested by Tony Whitley that bypasses the suspect relay with a fly lead and it worked a treat.  

Which now means I am free to enjoy the rest of my holiday without the concern my car won't start (which so far had only happened when there was a crowd, normally with camera phones waiting for us to leave).  

So once again a big thank-you to yourself and everyone else for there time.

Regards
Andy

 

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If the “suspect relay” is the “relay mod”, then I suspect the wire from that to the solenoid is fried such that it cannot carry sufficient current and less and less the hotter it gets, hence getting progressively worse and pushstart proves it.

So taking Tony’s jump wire as suggested, but to the suspect relay in parallel (or remove the old wire) should fix it. 

If this is the problem, the existing fried wire will feel stiff along some of its length when flexed between finger and thumb: mine was down to 7.5 volts when hot.

If the problem persists then other bits are fried, but right now it sounds ok.

I had exactly this problem in Portugal in 2006. I replaced my perfectly good Banner before discovering the click of death (aka K COD ) problems.

In short likely no need to jump direct to battery to start.

anthony

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