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Summer Readiness Jobs


Wrightpayne

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The MOT is looming, spring is on its way so must be time to fettle the seven!

So, on the list is nearside lower wishbone spherical bearing (MOT advisory last year) and investigate a bit of play/knock in offside rear suspension. MOT tester couldn't locate it.

Full service and fit side repeaters into headlights once I've decided which of the 3 styles of brackets and two sizes of headlights I'm going to use.

Whats on your to do list?

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Finish my 2019 rebuild! Left to do: refit fuel pump, hope its stops leaking, refit tank, seal boot floor, some local paint protection film, boot poppers, brake fluid.  I know the engine runs, it just leaks fuel out of the pump gasket while it does it! Wheels, shake down, tax & MOT.  

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Not sure I'll make it this year. Need to strip the engine snd rebuildvit to stop it leaking and struggle to find the time. However there will be at least three trackdays, two with the Nordic car magasines and one in the van to prove that I can do a certain lap time

 

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So far , strip and repaint chassis, new dampers, new wheels tyres, new tillet pads , new nose cone . Fixed non working oil temp. New a frame , new black headlamps

 

Still to do

Fit new wing protectors

 

Fit rear dampers again with longer springs to get rake and sump ground clearance to Dave Gemzoes liking

 

Set up at Gemzoe Motorsport

Polish exhaust

Clay paint work and re wax

Get kids seat set up for Noah's first passenger ride

 

Think that's it

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The rear anti roll bar drop links are prone to wear, especially the lower ball joint. The MoT testers do miss these maybe because they are so obscure & with weight on the play is hard to detect. Weight off the play is obvious & may surprise you.

Just changed the lower ball joints ready for the MoT having made them last many years by stripping cleaning & re lubrication.

Cut costs by only ordering the ball joint as the price of a whole assembly is eye watering.

My easy to follow guide: https://www.lotus7.club/guides/maintenance/rear-anti-roll-bar-drop-link-maintenance

Apart from standard service items & checks I had to remove & treat some light chassis corrosion. Clean & treat everything underneath with WD40. Also clean out the vestiges of mud when a local road, unbeknown to me, flooded to two inches with liquid mud!  This was the third & final mud clean up. Fit a high brake warning light.

 

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I've done the usual service stuff plus repaired my silencer, changed the  brake hoses and fluid and changed the diff oil. Still have to change my dampers after I found the OS front was leaking and do a nut and bolt check. 

I can't wait to get out in the Seven, but I do have two roadtrips and a track day booked. Roll on spring *smile*

Duncan

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I've never read about one failing in the way you describe. The pipe screws in so I would suspect you would notice a tiny drip if it was working loose. I went to a MOPG years back with my k series. The original on build didn't work properly, neither did the replacement. Fitted a MOPG and it gives accurate readings with less damping.
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IIRC mine came from Think Automotive. I'm sure if you call, they'll know the bits to make up a kit. Only decision I had to make was whether to include a higher rated low pressure warning switch (30PSI I think) and lamp. I did but its still on the 'to-do' list!

I can dig out the receipt if needed.

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In January I replaced the 27 year/93,000 mile old De Dion tube as a precaution. On inspection the old one looked OK although

it had been shimmed to combat a slight toe-in (it was previously checked and repowder-coated by Arch on 2008).

Other jobs:

Carried out a full service

Fabricated a revised throttle pedal extension to aid toeing and heeling

Repacked the silencer with Acousta-Fil,

Polished the primaries and re-lagged them with DEI exhaust titanium wrap.

Re: oil senders I've always found the VDO gauge and sender to be fine. In fact I have bought a new sender, but as a spare, I'm pretty sure mine is the 1993 original, maybe they were better quality in those days?

 

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Replace carb to manifold gasket and nuts.

Replace original distributor with one from Aldon with and Ignitor.

Install a decent electric cooling fan in front of the radiator and remove the blades on the useless Crossflow fan.

Run sump breather through valve cover and a catch can before sending it out the back.

Perform a leak down test to determine how worn the engine is, and where.

Put new Toyo R888Rs on my autocross rims.

Build a tire rack for transporting the track/autocross wheels to the track.

Check alignment.

Oil, filter and lube.

Flush brake fluid.

Give the car a thorough cleaning and polish.

Have fun the rest of the season!

And for the Boxster S:

Replace all engine and transmission mounts.

Check the shift linkages and possibly replace the shift cables.

Oil and filter.

Bleed brakes.

Replace autocross alignment with street alignment.

Sell the Dodge and second Boxster.

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  • 4 weeks later...

After 18 months, I’m a locking washer & brake fluid away from finishing my rebuild, and I’ve an MoT booked in 10 days. But at this rate I’m not sure I’ll be driving it much, and the Motorsport season looks to be much reduced. Is it worth me taxing on the 1st April or should I keep it SORN? 

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I don't expect motorsport to get any good news this season. Fewer social trips for the foreseeable future. Roads will be emptier. Does that choice boil down to whether you'd choose to take it out it for fun as opposed to need? And the emotional pain of seeing it complete but unused?

Jonathan

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