VX 2 litre engine removal

[bxhunt]

I am about to replace the gearbox on my 1994 HPC.  As this necessitates removing the engine which appears to be a tight fit in the engine bay I wondered if anyone has any useful hints?

Such things as best points to attach lifting chains, angle of removal, removal of propshaft to enable gearbox movement? would be helpful plus any other thoughts that will save me time and angst.

Incidentally, I have all the necessary lifting equipment and have frequently removed X-flows so I have a probably misplaced confidence in my ability!

Thanks.

[Wrightpayne]

An old mountain bike inner tube wrapped around the upper front chassis tubes protects it from knocks whilst being quite thin. Prop will just fall out when you pull the lump forwards depositing oil on the garage floor.

ECR and/or Tazio will hopefully be along shortly - our resident boat anchor experts :-)

 

[ECR]

Firstly, I always split the gearbox and engine.Its a big lump with the box attached and leaving the box in the car avoids gearbox oil everywhere I remove the radiator and can then attack the bellhousing bolts (mainly the upper bolt through the starter motor) from the front with a long wobble extension. When all the bellhousing bolts are undone, depress the clutch pedal and this will help split the box from the engine. I remove the alternator and swing the bracket out of the way. The lifting points are on the front left and rear right (from the drivers seat) of the cylinder head.  Bolt a couple of plates there and attach a lifting cable threaded through a pulley. The pulley is attached to the lift and this arrangement allows the fairly steep angle that you need to lift the engine out. If you have a removable engine bay diagonal this is a lot easier.

When refitting the engine leave engine block mount bolts loose till chassis to engine mounts are engaged. I have occasionally used the small scissor jack supplied with the car to push the block sideways into position (use carefully though). When refitting the headers Fit Four First then 3 2 1

If you have a dry sump system, don't loose the washers behind the two pump/engine mount bolts

See mounting plates and cable in pic

 

[bxhunt]

Thanks.  That's really helpful - just what I was after.  Also very useful points about the pulley and dry sump system.

Unfortunately no removable diagonal!

Again, thanks.  Much appreciated.

[Tazio]

As ECR says, split engine and box in the car much simpler task. Since fitting a removable diagonal on the nearside the de-install, install is so much easier. That being said, if you haven't got one I found it necessary to feed the engine in at an angle to clear the front cross member ( mines dry sumped), also it's easier if you have another pair of hands to steady it as it comes out/goes back in.

[ECR]

I also needed to slightly bow the non removable diagonal to get number 4 header engaged on studs. This may have been a peculiarity with my chassis but if needed I used the scissor jack again (carefully!) the tube springs back and it only needed a couple of mm persuasion ...

As above, second pair of hands to hold the engine at the correct angle is very useful/necessary

 

[Paul Deslandes]

All as above plus I've always found it useful to have a load spreader bar on the crane which makes it easier to tilt the engine when lifting and avoiding all the things that the engine will try and catch on.  I also remove the mounting brackets from the block for the same reason although they can be a bit of s*d to refit when the engine is back in.

best of luck, it gets easier the more often you do it!

Paul

[bxhunt]

Thanks for all the advice.  I suspect that re-installing is probably more difficult than removal.  At that point I might think about modifying the engine bay diagonals!

[Tony Whitley]

Tight fit?  When I helped put one back in there was oceans* of room.  Maybe because I'm used to trying to get my Duratec in.

*Oceans... Boat anchor...

[DaveMorris]

I've taken engine out seperately and also with gearbox attached. Agree with other posters that engine only is easier and saves pouring gearbox oil all-over the floor.

However, having sourced a blanking plug for the rear of the gearbox I now tend to pull the whole lot out in one go. (I do have the removable diagonals though, which makes things immeasurably easier). Take off speedo drive first though as these tend to snap off REALLY easily if you bound chem off a chassis rail.

It's a heavy old lump, get assistance. It reduces risk of damaging the chassis.

Dave

[andy_h]

I’ve done this a few times on my own now.

I always take engine and gearbox out and back in as one.

I also have a fixed engine diagonal and it is a pain and does have a bend in it where it has to be bent to get the bellhousing past.