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Zetec and Emararld K3 ecu, him no go.


Nigel Riches

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So in the long and tawdry process of getting the Caterham back on the road here in NZ, I have presented it for the inspectors pleasure, ok it's only been pinged on some minor issues.

However, the car has now failed to start, and the battery is below cranking level, there is plenty of "fuel pump" sounds, and if a jump start is applied plenty of vigorous cranking, but no starting of the engine.

So my learned colleagues out there in 7 land, what would be your call on first things to look for, ok, time was tight this afternoon and I didn't get a look at the green LED on the K3, indicating power available, I think. 

Given the above, and the old suck, squeeze, bang, blow sequence, well it's obviously sucking when a decent battery is applied, there is apparently fuel being delivered to the system if the pump noises are to be relied on, so the last item is the bang bit, not lighting off the fuel? however there may also be non activated injectors, so no bang.

The inspector assures me the car had been starting fine prior to the Christmas break, 2 weeks laid up in his workshop, and now it doesn't, start and between the two of them they had managed to flatten the battery, "A" grade motor mechanics? 

Any pointers gratefully received.

Regards.

Nigel.

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If the battery voltage falls below something like 9 volts during cranking, the ECU won't function. Charge the battery and try again. Have you checked the inertia switch ... press down on the top of it to reset if it has been tripped by an impact. Is the immobiliser deactivated before cranking ?
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I agree with Molecular Bob.

My procedure would be:

  • charge the battery
  • take out the plugs
  • isolate the fuel pump
  • turn the engine over briefly
  • take a blow torch and get the plugs really hot
  • put them back, reconnect everything, including the fuel pump
  • start the car.

Last time I had a really recalcitrant engine, it took me about 3 iterations but that was a learning process and I think that each time I made the tips of the plugs glow more brightly.

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Thanks for the info people.

I will be back to the inspectors shed tomorrow afternoon.

I have the 650cca battery from my Landcruiser in the car and some heavy duty jump leads, I feel the battery, which is not anywhere near new, has packed a sad, so possibly time for a new one,

If I can get the engine to run with this set up, I'll put the battery on charge at the workshop, and leave it for him to complete his checks, if not then it's a case of winch it on to the trailer and return to the garage at home for some other investigations.

Happy daze.

Nigel.  

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My Zetec has an Emerald K6 and and a Sterling Toad immobiliser, and they are both wired via the battery master switch, thus there is no parasitic drain on my 'golf buggy' battery. My battery therefore holds 13+ volts for a very long time and it very rarely drops below 12.5 even in this cold weather.

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So the continuing story, I got a message from Mr. Inspector saying he had turned the key and the motor fired up as it should, so he conducted the noise and emission checks and I presume did the brake check also, the car was then parked outside, and of course when I turn up it failed to start, good strong cranking, pumps running etc.

However whilst he and I were messing about trying to understand whats happening he again turned the key but kind of wiggled the key in the ignition lock, and that seems to be the problem, the 37 year old ignition switch is intermittent at the ignition power position, even though any higher current circuits are connected via relays, so when I get it back tomorrow afternoon I'll have an upside down session under the dash, possibly place a toggle switch for the ignition circuit, see if that gets this problem sorted.

Then of course need to find a replacement barrel for the lock, not interested in big red buttons, probably try some of the kit car supply places mentioned on the pages.

Thank you all for your assistance, and hopefully this is soon to be resolved.

Nigel.    

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Nigel,

I know you’re the other side of the world but the switch is available from rimmer brothers in the UK - one of the springs failed in my switch and I managed to fit a new one into the lock barrel. I’ll dig out the post with the write up and part code. Cost about £11.

Thats all assuming you have the triumph switch caterham usually fit.

Ian

 

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Thanks for the new info about the switch part of the lock assembly, my first online search was to Caterham parts site, no luck, just the whole lock unit, and surprise, nil stock, and at GBP 91 I can imagine why.

So further trawling through the interweb brought up an article about someone restoring a Lotus Excel, and there was a photo of the switch with a part number, Lucas (Lord of Darkness) 157 sa, which is readily available from loads of suppliers, and is identified as fitting dozens of older British brand cars, Triumph, MG, Land Rover and also Aston Martin, I've got to have one these.

Next step now the car is back on home turf, and by the way has started faultlessly each time I needed to fire it up, get the switch off and look for any numbers thereon. The battery is connected to its life support system, but still shows "red" after 3 hours now, previously it would be "green" after this time, so a new battery is on the menu.

Got some work to do before I can get the special plate to allow me to drive the car on the road, but it's not to serious, so should be sorted in a couple of weeks. 

Thanks for your assistance, much appreciated.

Nigel.

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