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Flaking Powder Coating


andy99998

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Some of the powder coating on my chassis is starting to flake in a few areas, the rest is in good condition - its only a 2011 after all, just wondering if there is anything I can do to touch it up...I don't really want to wait for the day when surface rust has well and truly set in!

Andy

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JK

They don't and neither do I on clean bare metal, three or four coats and the job's a good 'un.  I've used it on bare aluminium and bare steel for small jobs and once hard it stays on pretty well.  The black matches the original Arch powdercoat pretty well in terms of colour too.

Paul

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Wire brush off the loose powdercoat, then convert any rust with brushed on phosphoric acid (off Ebay 'cos the EU says you can't buy anything commercial that works any more as you're likely to drink it, or throw it at people *ranting* ), then brush on 'Hammerite with Waxoyl'

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The epoxy paints are good but do need applying to the correct surface - ie blasted.

I applied some to the bottom of a Lancia integrale 12 or so years ago and then used it every day, all weathers, all conditions, left outside all the time.

Epoxy applied to blasted areas - still intact, still holding strong and not coming off!

Epoxy applied to wire brushed, power wire brushed - solid layer in most cases, but detached from surface with rust underneath, easy to remove large flakes of paint.

Ordinary metal primer / paint still reasonably attached to similarly wire brushed areas.

My conclusion on the 25yr old rebuild of the Lancia - apply epoxy to blasted areas!

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Wire brush off the loose powdercoat, then convert any rust with brushed on phosphoric acid (off Ebay 'cos the EU says you can't buy anything commercial that works any more as you're likely to drink it, or throw it at people

What concentration would you like?

Jonathan

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Never been the same since they removed the DCM from Nitromors with the result that it's a paint stripper that doesn't strip paint anymore *curse*.  Chlorinated hydrocarbons are death of course *yikes*

My 15 year old bottle of Turtle Wax Rust Eater turned to hard jelly, so couldn't be brush painted any more-so I bought the new Hammerite Curust (Akzo Nobel) equivalent, what a load of total rubbish, thin as water so can only be applied on top of surfaces, great for chassis repairs, I don't think!!!

As you say POR15 is probably the best choice now, imported from the States, so good on yer, Mr. Trump and those before you who believe industry has a place in modern society.

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